Water Wave Mechanics TOC II-1-1. Introduction II-1-2. Regular Waves a. Introduction b. Definition of wave parameters c. Linear wave theory (1) Introduction (2) Wave celerity, length, and period (3) The sinusoidal wave profile (4) Some useful functions (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations (6) Water particle displacements (7) Subsurface pressure (8) Group velocity (9) Wave […]
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